TapLog it

9 Feb 2010 09:39 by Rick

Today is Safer Internet Day 2010 and the slogan being promoted is “Zip it, Block it, Flag it”; I suppose the principle is ok but this is not the language that kids understand however we are stuck with it. What it means, and I had to look it up, is Zip it—Keep stuff private, Block it—Block nasty people, Flag it—Tell someone if anything bothers you. There is more detail, but that is the gist of it; make it too complex and they won’t remember at all. Seeing as this program was announced back in December by the Prime Minister, it is not exactly prominent!

Anyway, I would like to add another one, not for the kids, except perhaps the older ones, but for the parents—Log it.

Most instant messaging (IM) and chat systems have a mechanism that allows a permanent (private) log to be made of all conversations. Switch it on. That way, if there is any doubt or worry then it can be reviewed and, when it is all in one place, trends and tendencies can be spotted more easily. Of course, for young children it is only a reminder because you are always there with them when they are on line **AREN’T YOU**. Older ones are entitled to a bit of privacy so if there are any concerns then you can discuss it with them and review the log together. Without the log there is no evidence that you can see (there are server chat logs which the police can use if an offence is suspected). But, beware, some chat systems also have public logs available where conversations can be seen by anybody. This is not usually a good idea.

Footnote: these are really rotten web sites, they don’t work properly with all web browsers, some make sounds which you can’t turn off and one feature only works with IE 8, a browser only used by 15% of users. The real web site is ceop.gov.uk but there are bogus ones at ceop.org.uk and ceop.co.uk designed to mislead you.

Tapmetaguru

30 Jan 2010 12:40 by Rick

…with a nod to Marc Bolan for the name.

When looking at problems I was having with the tagging of MP3 files recently, I had the need for something that would unambiguously tell me exactly what tags were in a file and to verify that they were changed when I thought they should be. Although there are a lot of music library programs out there I needed something that would tell it as it was and never attempt to change anything.

So I wrote this program; and very big it turned out to be. Meta data in music files is much more complex than I expected.

Like all my stuff it is a command line program, so no fancy graphical interface and, at the moment, it is only compiled for Intel Macs. I know that it does work on Sun Sparc Solaris and have no doubt that it will on Windows/DOS if I still had the compiler. It is probably good for other platforms too and the source code is supplied for you to port if you want to try. The output is quite voluminous, particularly if verbose mode is specified so be prepared to wade through a lot of information.

Since I first wrote it, it has extended in scope and now reports…

  • mp3—
    • ID3v1 & v1.1 TAG structure.
    • TAG+ extensions (not tested).
    • ID3v2.3 and 2.4 frames.
    • APE keys (read but ignored).
    • LYRICS3 blocks v1 & v2 (not tested).
    • embedded JPEG images.
  • wma—
    • ASF v1 objects.
    • some ASF v2 objects when discovered.
  • jpg—
    • JFIF markers.
    • Exif markers.
    • SOF0 markers.

I would like to go to other formats if I can get the information, particularly Apple & FLAC sound files and GIF & PNG graphics files. I will be adding basic disk file meta data such as permissions and creation & modification dates pretty soon, though I have a feeling that this will be less portable.

I have created a static support page for the program which includes download links and full instructions on how to run it. In a later posting I will be reporting on some of the things I discovered by using it.

TapGift cards

20 Jan 2010 12:27 by Rick

When I was a child, one of the things I loved to receive at Christmas and birthdays were gift cards. In those days it was book tokens and it meant that I could get something that I wanted rather than chosen by a rarely seen aunt who had forgotten how old I was. Later on it became record tokens but after a while these became a problem because few shops would take them where we lived. However, I think book tokens are still going strong.

In latter years everyone got into it and there was a big growth in store tokens. Everyone from the big department stores to smaller specialist chains had their own gift tokens; even some individual shops did it.

Recently there has been a move away from the denominated slip of paper with banknote like swirls, embossing, holograms and markers to a plastic card that looks like a store discount/loyalty/charge card. With this have come some security problems which are causing many people grief. The victims can be the shop or the customer and the perpetrators can be the staff, the public or third parties. I will concentrate on the problems for the customer because they have no control over the system.

The cards themselves are low security. They have a number which is duplicated by a bar code and sometimes by a magnetic stripe. Some cards also have a PIN which is initially concealed by a scratch-off covering. When the card is purchased it is “loaded” with money but this does not get recorded on the card itself but onto a central computer system. When goods are purchased with the card then the cost is deducted and any balance remains in credit. In order to provide the customer with documentary evidence a receipt is issued every time a card transaction takes place which shows how much is left on the card and this can also be checked at any time, either in a branch of the shop, by telephone or online.

How can you be conned? There are a number of holes in the system from old fashioned deception though to weaknesses in the system.

  • One way is that the card you are given when you buy one is not the card that was loaded with the deposit, it has been switched by the cashier. As this is likely to be a gift this is not discovered until little Johnny tries to buy his new trainers or whatever and then often not followed up because the parents don’t want to trouble the old guy that gave it because perhaps he did something wrong.
  • A similar switch can be pulled when spending a card with the cashier returning a different card with less on it or claiming the one presented has less on it than it does.
  • The other one I have heard of is even more blatant. When you buy the card, you are not given it, just a gift wallet containing the till receipt. When questioned, the cashiers have said that that is the token, there is nothing else. This was observed a few times when they were new and could have been partly down to poor staff training but in many cases they were not reported because it was thought that “aunt Millie had lost it before giving it to little Johnny.”

The cure for all of these is to observe closely everything that happens. When you get the card initially make sure the number on the card matches the one on the receipt and write that number on the inside of the gift wallet. Then when each transaction takes place, make sure the new receipt matches the same number and the card number is still the same. Also demand to have the empty card back, it is yours. If there is a significant amount of money on it then separately check the value using the phone/online system or another cashier.

There is one final scam which is enabled by the poor system design and there is not much that the customer can do about it.

  • The cashier selling the card has already noted the number and/or copied the card—if it is a bar code then a photocopy will do. They then spend the money on it before the legitimate owner. This is quite common around Christmas because they know that the card is unlikely to be redeemed until the January sales. It is very hard to prove that you haven’t spent it yourself because the shop has records that you have.

The flaw in the system here is that there is no interaction with the real card like there is with a Chip-and-Pin credit card. For online transactions they use the scratch-off PIN to verify that you actually have the card but in the shop there is no similar verification if you are on the inside—i.e. staff.

These observations were made on one brand (the M&S store card) but I am not picking on that one in particular because they all have similar problems. Perhaps there are some with real security but I haven’t seen one. These are being treated like real money, they are already as vulnerable as cash because there is no recovery if they are lost, yet the value can be spirited away from you without you even knowing.

TapDigital Double Cross

19 Jan 2010 18:51 by Rick

Three years ago, back at the start of 2007, I wrote about the Digital Dividend and the impact on the use of radio microphones. The conclusion then was that there was no planned effect on the unregulated channel 70 and that they were proposing that the currently licensed channel 69 would also become deregulated. Well they had their review and after public consultation changed their minds a little and proposed to leave channel 69 as it was, a licensed band (see para. 1.43). OK.

But it seems that they have now discussed it in Europe and collectively they have decided to clear the 800MHz completely—including channel 69. The detail of the proposal is that users of channel 69 are to be moved to channel 38. This will have an enormous impact on the entertainment industry and other users of radio microphones, talkback and instrumentation systems (collectively known as PMSE). That includes a proportion of churches that use licensed bands. Most of them will be using the unregulated channel 70 and that is not going to change but where there are interference problems or more than four frequencies are required then they will be using channel 69 and this will make a difference. It is estimated that one in eight will be affected. Effectively, most of the old gear will have to be thrown away and new stuff purchased because the frequency change from 854 to 606MHz is too great to allow simple re-tuning in most equipment. Mine can only be internally changed (at some cost) down to 690MHz channel 48. The situation is so serious that the Church of England has joined the campaign group Save our Sound to lobby government to change their minds or compensate users.

On top of that, channel 38 was previously used by radio astronomers and it is not certain that they are clear of it yet. Certainly its use for radio microphones is regionally limited and is not available in the North-West of England until 2012. There are other channel moves proposed but they will affect the larger commercial organisations rather than smaller operations such as churches.

TapGoat to Jail

13:09 by Rick

Would all you people stop using unpatched versions of Google Chrome, my office is filling up with goats.

TapThe Riddle of the Pyramids

17 Jan 2010 15:07 by Rick

…or The Pharaoh’s Puzzle.

This is a puzzle that was given to me at Christmas because it is known that “I like that sort of thing” and the owner couldn’t solve it! I am not surprised. I am coming to the conclusion that it is not soluble. Not that it has no solution, because I suspect that it does, just that there is no rational way to come up with a solution and doing it randomly would take many lifetimes.

The puzzle contains 100 equilateral triangles each brightly coloured using six basic colours (red, orange, yellow, green, purple and pink). The combination of colours and their pattern around the circumference of each triangle differs from piece to piece. All six colours appear on each piece and except for 18 duplicates, they are each unique.

The object of the puzzle is to use all the 100 pieces and build a large equilateral triangle with a base of 45cms (10 pieces). Other than the colours there are no deliberate distinguishing marks on the pieces so there is no way to tell edges from insides. The interior circles on each piece are identical. So mathematics tells us that there are 100! (100 factorial) different arrangements of pieces – that is about 10 ^ 158 or 1 with 158 zeros following. Clearly some pattern matching reduces this considerably as bad matches are eliminated but using the best algorithm I could come up with and the fastest computer available I could not reduce the time required to solve it to within my lifetime or even this millennium. The only other feature I could extract from the pieces was that there were 20 edges (pairs of colours) that didn’t have a corresponding edge to match up with so must occur on the outside; but which of the occurrences of those edges they actually are is anybody’s guess.

So…do you know this puzzle and do you have a solution or even insight to a better method? If so I would like to hear from you. The publishers, “Brand Makers International Ltd” of Kirby Muxloe seem to be out of business.

[Update] I realise that my description wasn’t good enough as a couple of people have written to say that they didn’t undertstand what the problem was. So I have scanned a few of the pieces so you can see how they have to fit together—colour matching to colour. Do that 100 times and you are done.

TapYear for Change

15 Jan 2010 22:35 by Rick

Are you thinking what we're thinking

Thanks to MyDavidCameron.com

TapSquirrel Mail

17:04 by Rick

This one must justify the name, though I don’t know how that package got involved as it is not one I use (and I can’t see BlueYonder/VirginMedia using it either). It was sent from my BY account, possibly via webmail, to Mary’s address—and turned up back with me over six months later. Nuts must be short at the moment.

TapSonos from Scratch

2 Jan 2010 15:46 by Rick

Perhaps you have seen a Sonos system in someone’s house or you have seen it in hi-fi shops or on the internet and fancy one yourself. The advertising says you can get it going with one click (or is it two?) and it really is that easy but like any new acquisition it is worth doing a little planning first.

I will assume that you have an existing hi-fi system, a collection of CDs (music on Vinyl and Tape is beyond the scope of this article), a computer (Windows or Mac, desktop or laptop) and a broadband connection (this is essential) but not necessarily a wireless network. I will NOT assume that you are an iPod/portable MP3 player user—if you are then it can be easier (or can be harder!) This is written for a UK audience but most parts will be applicable elsewhere. Before we start, lets talk about budget. Over a complete system you need to allow about £500 per room. The first ones will be a little dearer and money can be saved by using existing components such as loud-speakers but it won’t alter the bottom line by a lot.

The first thing to decide is where you want to listen to music. There is no problem in starting small and expanding later but it can be cost effective to do two rooms at a time. In the room where the hi-fi sits you will need a ZP90 (ZonePlayer) connected to a spare input on your amplifier or receiver with the cables provided. These sockets could be marked Aux, AV (or even Radio or Video) but Phono inputs are not suitable. For rooms with no existing hi-fi then a ZP120 which has a built in amplifier can be used with a pair of loudspeakers and cable. Expect to spend £100–£200 for a pair of speakers as you will want decent ones, and try listening to some before buying as these affect the perceived quality more than anything else. I have no experience of the Sonos own-brand speakers. For less critical environments such as the kitchen, cheaper speakers can be used or the new Sonos S5 system which is semi-portable and has built in speakers (it only needs a mains power connection.)

One of the Sonos units must be hard wired to your broadband router! If you want music near where this is located you can use a standard ZonePlayer and connect that. If not then a cheaper option is to use a ZoneBridge (ZB100) which just makes the necessary network connection. All the equipment, except loudspeakers, can be hidden away in cupboards so long as they have adequate ventilation. In exceptional houses (very thick walls, large floor area or more than two stories) then you will need to carefully consider the siting of the equipment. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that each device is within 10m horizontally or 3m vertically from another one towards the direction of the hard-wired component. People with pre-wired houses have tried putting all the ZonePlayers in one cupboard but this can make it difficult to get a good signal on the wireless controllers.

You control the system to select the music to play using the hand held wireless controllers. You will probably need at least one. Each controller has a charging station (thankfully now included in the box) where it sits ready to be used. We have a three story house so keep one on each level. In addition there is a free computer desktop controller (PC or Mac) which it is worth installing as it makes system maintenance easier, but you probably won’t want to use it for day to day operation. There is also a well advertised controller application for the iPhone/iPod Touch. This requires you to have a (separate) wi-fi wireless system on your home network (the 3G Internet on the iPhone is not an alternative) and can be a cheaper substitute for the portable controller (free if you already have the device) but does have drawbacks e.g. it takes a while to wake up. Note that the Sonos system does NOT play the music that is on your iPod.

This has all been straight forward so far but now we come to the stuff they don’t talk about in the adverts. Sonos is well designed for non-technical users but here we need to get a little bit geeky so it runs smoothly long-term. Primarily, the Sonos plays music from digital storage i.e. Computer hard drives. The easiest and cheapest option is to use the music library facilities on your home computer—Windows Media Player on a PC or iTunes on a Mac. However this does have significant drawbacks, the most obvious of which is that the computer needs to be switched on to play any music. Home computers are not designed to be on all day, every day. They are not reliable enough, there are security implications and the power consumption can be considerable.

A better alternative is to use a NAS (Network Attached Storage) device. This is not a Music Server or anything fancy, just a box with hard drives attached to your network. It is designed to be on all the time and usually has power saving features to go into a standby mode when not in use. Talk to your supplier to find a suitable device – in technical language you want one that does SMB file sharing. I use the Netgear ReadyNas Duo which has two hard drives that mirror each other—i.e. they have identical copies of the same data so that if one fails you don’t lose anything. This guards against most failures except theft—if that is an issue or you have irreplaceable material then I would suggest a separate secured or offline backup system – discuss this with an expert. The NAS device wires to your router in the same way that your computer and the first Sonos system, with a Network cable.

What file format should you use? The four well known alternatives are WMA (Windows Media Audio), m4a (Apple format), FLAC (Lossless) and MP3. Sonos will play any of them but the first two can limit your future choice of other devices such as portable players. Purists like the lossless format but I can never hear the difference and they are supported by fewer systems so I would suggest using the MP3 format as it is very flexible. All the formats (except FLAC) can be recorded at different bit-rates; the higher the bit-rate the better the quality. As disk space is relatively cheap then go for the highest available. It used to be that people used lower bit-rates for portable devices but even these have massive capacity now so there is no need to compromise. There are two other formats you may have considered; WAV is supported by Sonos but it it is very wasteful of disk space for no benefit over other lossless formats and m4p files are the old Apple copyright protected files – they won’t play on Sonos and need to be converted to the liberated version (for a fee). There are other more obscure formats but if you need these then ask an expert.

How much storage space are you going to need? As a guide, my library has 10,000 tracks and takes up 70GB of storage using the highest quality MP3 files. The Sonos is limited to 65,000 tracks so I will never need more than 0.5TB. I bought 1TB drives because they were good value and I also use the space for PC backups. Using a lossless format I would need about three times the space.

To get the music off your CDs and onto the NAS (called “ripping”) you will need some software . This can be the same software that manages your library i.e. keeps all the information such as titles, artists correct. These programs also do things like a music jukebox but you won’t be using these facilities. If you have a Windows PC then I do NOT recommend using Windows Media Player. I have found that it has a mind of its own arbitrarily changing things that you have previously set. It has a time lag putting some operations into the background so unless you have it on a lot, some things never get done. The final nail in the coffin was that it always leaves a small gap between tracks even if there isn’t one on the CD. I have found the free MediaMonkey is a good alternative which does exactly what you tell it to. If you are a Mac user then people successfully use iTunes. It has some of the same problems as WMP, particularly with cover-art but I don’t know of a good alternative. There are available some separate and specialised CD rippers which are independent of the library managers—examples are Exact Audio Copy (EAC) for PC and Max (for Mac). These go to extraordinary lengths to guarantee that the copy you get is identical to what was on the CD. Whatever you use, take some time to get to know your program and discover how to set the recording format and quality.

When it comes to indexing your music, Sonos only takes account of six of the tags, as the information fields are called: (Album) Artist, Contributing Artist, Album (Title), Track (Name), Genre & Composer (these may have different names in your library software). All others are ignored and the last two are only used for indexing. It makes everything easier to find if you are consistent in using these—a task that is quite a challenge for the classical music lover and one that I haven’t yet completely solved.

Now you are all set but where should you buy it from? There is very little discounting for Sonos equipment so for cost it makes very little difference. You can buy direct from Sonos and it can be cheaper to get one of the bundles which include two ZonePlayers and a Controller. There are specialist online suppliers such as Simply Sonos who do a wider range of packages and deals. If you need to talk about loudspeakers and perhaps listen to some then many quality high-street hi-fi shops stock the range. I do not recommend buying the stuff on eBay unless you know exactly what you are doing. Some of it, even if new, is sourced from other countries and may have warranty implications.

Finally, sit back and listen. It will transform your music experience like it has mine.

TapThe last cheque is in the post

17 Dec 2009 10:17 by Rick

I have written before about why cheques should not be allowed to die and yesterday there was an announcement that they are to be phased out by 2018. They say “but only if adequate alternatives are developed” but by what and whose criteria? The committee is mostly made up of bankers and we all know whose interests they will be looking after.

We were wondering, while walking across the downs last night, if it is actually possible for cheques to be discontinued. After all, a cheque is only a signed letter from you to your bank to make a transfer; either to a named individual if the cheque is crossed or in cash to bearer. The banks issue fancy forms pre-printed with your name, account number and other details but you don’t have to use them. As A. P. Herbert demonstrated, a cheque can be written on anything so long as it contains the essential ingredients—information to identify the account (the bank and account name or number), validation of authority to make the transaction (signature) an amount, a date and a payee.

Of course you can take this a step further and remember that bank notes are only a specialised form of cheque. It is a letter from the chief cashier of the Bank of England at the time to credit you with a certain sum of money. When invented this meant gold but I am not exactly sure what it means now.

Footnote: it is also funny to notice that bank notes now have a copyright notice “©The governor and company of the Bank of England 2000.” Not only is that unnecessary as there are other laws forbidding uttering (forgery) but copyright law doesn’t even need it. Perhaps it is to dissuade Johnny Foreigner from photocopying a stash.